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This guide is intended to provide an index and glossary of the various technical terms frequently found during the process of making silver jewellery.


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Annealing

The process of softening metal with heat before you work on it For silver the annealing temperature is between 1110-1200F (the melting point of silver is 1635F). The silver should be quenched (or cooled) after annealing when it drops below 930F annealing silver with heat

Casting

The process of mass-producing the same item in either the cuttlefish casting process, the lost wax method or a rubber mould.

Chasing

The method of creating lines of a pattern along the surfaces of the metal by using a small steel tool

Doming and swaginghammering silver

A swage block or a doming block is used to form half-spheres or domes out of the silver.

Forging

Forging is the method of curving, stretching, flattening and shaping the silver by applying force from different directions with different shaped hammers.

Fusing

Joining different parts of the silver by using purely heat and not solder i.e. the metal fuses together.

Inlaying

Lines or shapes can be grooved or cut of the silver and then another metal, wood, stone etc can be laid into the channels or grooves.

"Mandrels"

A tool used for shaping jewelry items. For rings, they are known as "Triblets" or Ring"mandrels" which is a long tapered tool made of steel that is marked in ring sizes from A to Z. (mandrels are used for more than just stretching rings e.g. bezels). The ring "mandral" is sometimes also used for shaping and forming rings.

"Mokume Gane"

A technique whereby the surface of the metal is decorated in such a way as to resemble the grains of a wood. It can be achieved using layers of metals of a different color soldered together.

Pickling

The process of using chemicals to clean the metal after it has been heated. When the silver is heated, oxides appear of the surface which then can be removed by pickling. We use alum although Sulfuric acid is more than effective.

"Repousse"

"Repousse" is the art of working with punches from the back of an item to form lines and shapes to create a 3 dimensional effect from the front.

Reticulation

The art of making veins or fibres, for example a leaf, appear across the silver. Reticulation can be achieved by repeating various heat treatments at different stages.

Details of the composition of silver jewellery can be found on this site.